Moscow: Sometimes you actually feel sad for Soviet Failure

At this point in time there are probably few people that would continue to argue that communism and central planning is a viable economic system. While I agree that if it worked it would be a more equitable idea for everyone to share equally in economic gains it lacks a force to drive the majority of the population to accomplish anything beyond the bare minimum. But traveling in Moscow I have to admit that the Soviet system did have some lasting benefits, they did create some amazing things, and it is sad in some respects that it is now a failed experiment. That government’s early legacy I think is very proud and accomplished.

When traveling in Moscow it is apparent that for at least the first 40 years or so of Soviet rule things in Russia were improving. As I have mentioned before and amazing metro system was created, major building where built, and the country industrialized. This momentum lasted until the mid 60s. Everywhere you travel in Russia you see monuments to this fallen empire. Plaques on walls, statues built into the sides of buildings, bronze art artwork in the metro, and many other structures. All of these things have a grandeur that is hard to explain. You can easily see how these scenes inspired the first generation of Soviets. All of the buildings from this area are also extremely well built and decorative. Then you can tell that times in the Soviet state turned for the worst anything built in the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s was of much worse quality, much more utilitarian, and received much less up-keep. Not until the last 5 years or so has building quality begun to make real improvements.

Probably on of the most interesting and amazing places I saw in Moscow is now called the All Russian Exhibit Center. It is in the northwest corner of the city and is a must see. Started in the 30’s and really built up in the 50’s and 60’s this is an area with 300 or so buildings that stand as a monument to how much power the soviets did have at one time. You enter the area through a 3 to 4 story tall pillared gate, topped with the required statue of workers looking to the future and adorned with scenes of wheat and produce. Once through the gate there is a long mall with manicured lawns, flower beds, and several fountains. Straight ahead in the main building once dedicated to the USSR in grand classical styling. Sitting in front of this building is a story and half tall statue of Lenin. To left is a large farmers market and some exhibition building to the right a large park area with some of the largest, but closed, exhibition buildings. The buildings far to the right also are the most modern, made out of stainless steel and glass. These buildings were at on time dedicated to displaying scientific achievements, now they lay dormant and rotting.

Walking around the main building you see an amazing large fountain, all decked out in gold. In a circle around this fountain is a building, originally built and supported by each of the soviet member country. These building are built in a manor to show off what is special about each country. They were originally used to hold dances, events, and displays based on each countries unique ethnic culture. Once through this circle there are several blocks of more buildings originally dedicated to different alchemic disciplines or industries; such as chemistry, physics, or mathematics and agriculture, transportation, or energy. Each of these buildings again has its own character. Many have tile mosaics, statues, or even stained glass. Each one was beautiful in its own way. Similar to the building representing each member country these buildings were used represent their subject matter and hold exhibits and events. The final display of buildings in this area is the Aeronautics and Space buildings. These have a real rocket and a couple of jets on display in front of them, thought the buildings themselves are condemned.

The sheer size of this place was astounding. But what is more astounding is what is happening to the center now. It’s original purpose is now gone, Russia is a single country and the Russian Federation is only a fraction of the nations that once made up the USSR. However there are still all of the same industries, academic disciplines, and need for exhibition centers that benefit the public good. But this is not what is happening to this place, instead it has become victim to capitalism in a low form. Each building has been sectioned off and leased in parts. This wonderful center originally meant to benefit Russians by presenting knowledge is now a cross between a mall and a bazat. There was always a farmers market, and I think that fit in nicely with everything else. But now they hold discount electronic, fur, clothing, and other consumer events, there are restaurants where nations used to display their heritage, and every square foot of the entire campus is covered in advertising. In fact many of the wonderful buildings are obscured by aluminum framing that has canvas or plastic banner print adds strung from rung to rung. These cover up art work, statues, mosaics, architectural details, and many other items that once made this place special.

While this center isn’t the only place you see such capitalism gone wild; it is one of the most stark contrasts in the country of what was and what has become. Along with a reminder to westerns of how far the country has to go. After a day of strolling the streets of this marvelous center though I was personally left with a hallow feeling. I could only imagine what this place was like in its prime, how proud the citizens must have been that built, visited, and ran such a place. I it is sad then that it has now become a mall, that exhibitions are not held hear, and that it has fallen so far. Again this is the case with many places in Russia, you can see what they were and are. In most cases it is an improvement over the past. New apartments, parks, and commerce areas are much nicer than anything built a decade ago. There are many more entertainment options for people than in the past, clubs, bowling, etc. But on the more rare occasions you a left feeling a little sad that Soviets are gone, and that some of the marvelous things they built are not used in the obviously proud manner they were intended.